Why This Scottish Island Is Stealing Skye's Thunder

Sabine Hoffmann · 2026-10-14

I get it. When you think of a Scottish hiking holiday, your mind goes straight to Skye. The jagged peaks, the fairy pools, the crowds. Oh, the crowds. After my last trip there, I was ready to swear off island hiking altogether. Then a friend said, "Try Mull. It's like Skye, but you can actually hear yourself think." So I did. And now I'm the one telling everyone to move over Skye. ### The Skye Fatigue Is Real Look, Skye is stunning. It's also a victim of its own Instagram fame. In peak season, the parking lots at the Quiraing and Old Man of Storr fill up by 9 a.m. You end up sharing your summit selfie with fifty other people. The magic gets a little diluted, you know? Mull, on the other hand, feels like a secret that's been kept just long enough. The ferry from Oban takes about 50 minutes, and the moment you roll off, the pace drops. There are no tour buses clogging the single-track roads. Just sheep, sea eagles, and the occasional otter. ### Hiking That Feels Like a Proper Adventure What I loved most about Mull's trails is that they demand a bit of engagement. You're not just following a paved path with a hundred others. You're route-finding across moorland, hopping over burns, and keeping an eye on the weather. It's hiking that makes you feel like you've earned the view. #### Ben More: A Proper Leg-Stretcher Ben More is the only Munro on the island, and it's a beauty. The path starts near Loch na Keal and winds up through heather and scree. At 3,169 feet, it's not a walk in the park, but the summit panorama is worth every step. On a clear day, you can see the Outer Hebrides and even Northern Ireland. I sat up there for an hour and saw exactly two other people. Two. #### The Ross of Mull: Coastal Magic The southwest peninsula of the Ross of Mull is where the island really shows off. The hike from Fionnphort to Malcolm's Point is a gentle 4-mile round trip along a wild coastline. The reward? Views of the Isle of Iona and seals bobbing in the Sound of Iona. It's the kind of place where you just stop and stare. ### The Wildlife Steals the Show I've hiked all over Scotland, but Mull's wildlife is on another level. White-tailed eagles patrol the skies above Loch na Keal. Golden eagles nest in the hills. And if you're lucky, you might spot a pod of dolphins from the coastal path. On one hike near Loch Buie, I rounded a bend and came face to face with a red deer stag. We just looked at each other for a solid minute before he trotted off. That doesn't happen on Skye—not with a crowd of selfie sticks behind you. ### Where to Stay and What to Eat Mull's food scene is quietly excellent. The Isle of Mull Cheese farm near Tobermory makes a cheddar that'll ruin all other cheddar for you. Trust me. And the seafood? The fish and chips at the Mishnish in Tobermory are legendary for a reason. For accommodation, I stayed at a cozy B&B in Salen, right on the Sound of Mull. It cost about $120 a night, including a breakfast that kept me full until dinner. There are also hostels and self-catering cottages if you're watching your budget. ### The Verdict: Mull Might Just Win Don't get me wrong—Skye is still worth a visit. But if you want a hiking holiday where you can breathe, where the trails aren't conga lines, and where the wildlife outnumbers the tourists, Mull is your island. It's Skye's quieter, wilder sibling. And once you've experienced it, you might just find yourself saying the same thing I did: move over, Skye. > "Mull is like Skye's introverted cousin—just as beautiful, but way less interested in the spotlight." So next time you're planning a Scottish adventure, give Mull a chance. Your hiking boots will thank you. And so will your sense of wonder.